Tempting kebabs, fragrant biryani, and whipped, cloud-like desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has forever been a haven for gastronomes, with residents and tourists alike swearing by its superb cuisine.
An International Accolade
In a recent announcement, The United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization honored it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – including it in a select roster of global cities and igniting hopes that it will highlight Lucknow's sublime food. With this title, it joins a international community of cities cities across more than 100 countries dedicated to promoting "innovation as a driver of city development that is sustainable".
The accolade "demonstrates its centuries-old food heritage and lively food ecosystem," as noted by a official from UNESCO's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is only the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to earn a spot in this coveted list of seventy urban centers around the world.
An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul
The honor for this historic city comes as little surprise to its inhabitants or passionate food lovers. Many agree with the sentiment that it is "an honor long overdue".
With the UNESCO designation, this beloved, chaotic, and diverse city – the administrative center of India's largest state – is at last in the global gaze for what has consistently defined its soul: an profound love for food.
"'What's for dinner, how will it be cooked' is a continued dialogue from waking up until going to bed in many homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are truly evaluated by the quality of food that is produced in your kitchen."
A Heritage of Nawabi Cuisine
The Nawabi City – as it's often referred to after its 18th and 19th Century opulent Muslim rulers – is renowned for its melt-in-the-mouth kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were conceived, perfected, and raised to extraordinary levels in their imperial kitchens.
These imperial kitchens were epicenters of food experimentation, blending Persian and native Indian styles to create what became known as the cuisine of Awadh.
It was during this time that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were developed. The story goes that the galouti kebab was created to cater to an ageing nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His culinary artists minced the meat with raw papaya, kesar, and a blend of spices and made it so soft that it required no chewing.
But perhaps the most significant contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a low, leisurely heat, with the container's cover tightly closed with dough.
More Than Just Famous Dishes
Apart from the famous kebabs and biryani, the cooks also created a collection of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not just about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a vegetarian's paradise.
The local Baniya community's cuisine doesn't just highlights seasonal produce but also gives the city its highly curated Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – tangy fried snacks.
Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries
Nearly on many street corners, there are small establishments and stalls – little-known delights that are wildly loved by the locals.
In the central district of Hazratganj, large gatherings start assembling from early morning at a famous tea stall to get a piping hot cup of spiced tea with milk, served in kulhads, along with fluffy buns slathered with hand-churned white butter.
In the morning, one can make their way to a simple joint situated in the old city area of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was founded, the place is still much sought-after for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Preserving Tradition for the Future
The city also boasts remarkable treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert savored in the winter. The method of making it is intricate and demanding. The cook beats the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its incredible frothy texture.
On crisp mornings, street vendors can be seen in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Some though express concern that their children are reluctant to take up the art.
A well-known culinary expert from Lucknow has noted that the city's immense food legacy places it among the best of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, however, will materialize only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow tells a story – shaped by multi-generational food businesses, from humble street carts to bustling restaurants, and guarded family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is hoped, will inspire more people globally to discover these tales and experience the city to taste the culinary delights of Lucknow.
